Firm and resilient. Thread, Genoa corduroy.
Normally, work clothes are made from this corduroy – this unsusceptible material withstands extreme stress. In the warp, a strong thread of strength Nm 34/2 is used. This, together with the high weft density – 55 fibres per centimetre – forms a heavyweight, very resilient fabric (500 g/sq m) with great resistance. This arises, on the one hand, from a type of anchoring of the pile yarn in the fabric – a so-called VW-bond – and, on the other hand, from the large quantity of weft fibres. Hiltl, in Sulzbach-Rosenberg, produces for us these men’s pants made of Genoa corduroy thread
With a moderately wide cut the pants are made without pleated waistbands or cuffs. The side elastic waistband is doubled with a shell. There are French side pockets and two trimmed back pockets with buttons made of true horn.
Velvet. Corduroy. Corduroy velvet.
There have been three traditional strongholds in the textile industry; each has stood for different specializations within the branch of velvet and corduroy weaving: Krefeld, for the actual velvets originating from the silk weaving mills; Amiens, for very fine corduroy velvet (Velours d’Amiens); and Manchester, for the rough cotton, corduroy material from the Fustian family. Here, we have corduroy velvet in the Manchester tradition.
Thread, Genoa corduroy. Luxuriant and solid.
When corduroy is made, a third thread, considered a “pole shot,” is integrated into the base fabric, consisting customarily of both warp and weft. This creates over the fabric a pole or yarn pile, which is either grinded or cut. The result is the typical corrugated look of corduroy, whose quality is determined by how firmly the yarn pile is connected into the base fabric, by the height of the pile, and by the number and fineness of the corrugations, which are cut, with circular blades, into the triple-threaded fabric. It is woven with a strong thread in the warp and a high density in the weft, obtaining an impressive material weight of 500 g/sq m. The result is an abrasion-resistant, indestructible material, normally used to make work clothes.