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Pike Brothers - Work is (only) half the life
Functional is not always chic - and the same is true in reverse. A look in the window displays shows all too often: aesthetics and practicality seem difficult to reconcile. With its workwear items made according to historical models, the vintage label Pike Brothers from Bad Feilnbach in Upper Bavaria proves that good looks and practical utility are by no means mutually exclusive. From the elaborately crafted aviator jacket to the classic Roamer jeans to the robust vest made of heavy Atlas fabric - Pike Brothers products convince in every situation, far beyond work.
Selected models in detail
Authentiek in materiaal en afwerking is deze recht gesneden jeans met een hoge tailleband. Hun oorsprong ligt in Amerika in het begin van de jaren 1930, een tijd waarin denim broeken uitsluitend arbeidersbroeken waren. Qua snit vertoont de broek alle details van zijn tijd. Naast riemlussen hebben ze klinknagels voor het bevestigen van bretels en de "cinch back strap", de verstelbare stang in de achterste tailleband om de wijdte aan te passen. Dit was nodig omdat de keuze aan maten in die tijd veel kleiner was - als de broek te wijd was, spande je gewoon de "riem" aan. Hetzelfde gold voor de lengte: als de broekspijpen te lang waren, werden ze gewoon een stukje omgeslagen.
Dit denim jack is door en door authentiek, oorspronkelijk gebruikt door Noord-Amerikaanse cowboys als rijjas. De snit is dienovereenkomstig kort en dicht bij het lichaam. De gebroeders Pike hebben slechts twee zakken toegevoegd aan het historische model - op verzoek van vele klanten. Het jasje is gemaakt van ruwe denim. Deze denim wordt vervaardigd op oude schietspoelweefgetouwen die zich niet meer in Duitsland bevinden, maar worden geëxploiteerd door een weverij in Turkije. De echte zelfkanten aan de binnenkant zijn het bewijs van deze weefoorsprong.
Pike Brothers bij Manufactum
Pike Brothers Times Two. A corporate history between 1930 and 2008
Once upon a time, two brothers, George and Joseph Pike, decided to set up their own small but exclusive men's tailor shop in 1930 - after all, they were British and lived in London, where high-quality, tailor-made men's clothing was at least as important as the air they breathed. With the start of World War II, however, they expanded their range. More and more American soldiers were coming to town, and the "Pike Brothers" recognized and served the growing need for uniforms for the armed forces of the USA. What made them special was that they combined the classic cuts of the military with fine European fabrics and English craftsmanship. At some point, however, the war was over, the Americans left, and a few years later, in the late 1950s or early 1960s, the Pike brothers' business also closed its doors.
Fast-forward to the new millennium, when English and history teacher Fabian Jedlitschka spends his free time touring the classic car shows with self-restored motorcycles and cars. Motorized authenticity is not enough for him. As a collector of historic army and work clothing, he also displays his passion for the 1930s to 1950s on his own body. So much attention to detail goes down well. In 2007, Jedlitschka quit his job as a teacher and set up his own business with his wife - a trained fabric engineer - to produce authentic clothing based on historical patterns, with materials that are every bit as good as the originals. He has an original Pike Brothers jacket in his trove, and as a reminder of their craftsmanship, he gives his newly founded company its historically authenticated name. If it's authentic, then it's authentic.
Like something out of a museum. Product development at Pike Brothers
While creative minds develop the cuts at other companies, they are curated at Pike Brothers. Historical originals from the most diverse fields of work and with the most diverse material requirements are collected, first dissected and then reconstructed: cuts are taken 1:1, fabrics are reissued in collaboration with small, tradition-conscious weaving mills and the garments are finally handmade in selected European tailor shops. This results in products that not only tell a story visually, they are just like their role models highly functional and offer - no matter what the activity - maximum comfort.
A classic from Pike Brothers in the Manufactum assortment is the Roamer Pant, a characteristic jeans from the time when denim pants were not yet found in every closet, but served as functional overpants. Since they were produced in standard length, they were usually adorned with a turn-up to regulate the length, while suspenders and the waist tab called "cinch back" prevented the jeans from slipping. It is such small details that on the one hand underline the authenticity of Pike Brothers products and on the other hand make them stand out from the crowd. As a tribute to modern times and for even more comfort, however, they are now produced in all sizes.
The raw denim fabric of the Roamer Pant, which is also used in the Pike Brothers Denim Jacket, has little to do with the denim as it is mostly sold today. The denim comes to the customer unwashed and hard - one can almost say board-like. Selvages, as they are called, are evidence of production on old looms, and thanks to avivage treatment, the material is characterized by a particularly high level of resistance. To maintain this and at the same time prevent shrinkage, Pike Brothers products made from raw denim should ideally not be washed for three to six months. We include instructions on how to treat them afterwards. In the meantime, pants and wearer can get used to each other and form a very personal bond. At times it was fashionable to speed up this process by sitting in the bathtub with your new jeans and then letting them dry on your body, but here too - as with so many things - good things take time. You have to work on the perfect pair of jeans, even if you don't wear them to work.
Every other piece of Pike Brothers clothing that finds its way into the Manufactum assortment is also made according to historical models and has proven its worth for work and leisure alike thanks to the optimal combination of cut and material. Be it the lambskin flight jacket trimmed with horsehide, the hunting pant made of "Duck Canvas", a fabric that was commonly used in the 1940s in the context of hunting and working in the open countryside, or work pants and vest made of "Elephant Skin", an abrasion-resistant atlas fabric that develops an almost leather-like appearance over time and, due to its structure, not only repels perspiration sparks but also any doubts about its durability. You don't have to worry about functionality, only the question of style remains. But that, too, will become superfluous as soon as you put on one of the pieces for the first time. We're willing to bet on that.